1994 BERETTA
Daily Driver with a few little modifications.

10/10/2009 -
Even longer without update! Still need to get the pictures and links to them. I have much uploaded but no links. Exhaust is on, sounds great (took a while to break in, now it's mellow and quieter) and it looks great. All stainless, mounting hardware included. The tips are C6 Corvette style, but offset. Basically the size of the C6 tips, but offset like the GMC Acadia tips. I used a 95 mount for the muffler with a stainless strap from the old muffler, stock over the axle mount location with a stainless rod going to the pipe just like factory was. And then stainless clamp to the other 94 style muffler mount in the back that connects to the tail pipe. The last one does not really hold anything up but does stabilize everything. It keeps the muffler from bouncing and prevents the tips from smacking under the bumper when you hit bumps. I picked up power more on the low end than the high end which is odd. Not sure if tuning will help that or if the log manifolds are just choking the high RPMs. It could be possible that at low RPMs the exhaust was a bottle neck more than the manifolds, but now that is opened up, the manifolds are the bottle neck at high RPM. That would explain the gain only down low... I also went over the under side and took a wire wheel to any flaking paint and hit it with rust-o-leum hammered black.

Here is a to-do list in no particular order:

• Install Vacuum Gauge

• Buy Silicone Couplers for FWI

• Assemble and Tune with new PCM

• Install new motor and trans.
   

So I'm going to be able to tune, OBD1 via 16149396 PCM which will also control the trans. I got a great deal on the tuning equipment. I also got the new PCM and pigtails for both the PCM end and the other end which will plug into the stock body harness (so no cutting wires) for a total of $62 for everything shipped. This will cost me less than just a DHP tuner including everything and will be plug and play. Hardest part will be mounting the PCM in the stock location, but that shouldn't be too hard. So I will be able to tune finally!

I'll shoot for getting the gauge installed and start assembly on the PCM this weekend. I have to see how the stock one mounts so I know how much wire to leave on my harness I'll be making. I also have a how-to write up that I'm doing at the same time so others can do the same if they want to tune their 94-95 on the cheap with readily available equipement. I have a new motor (hehe) and will be going over a few things on it this weekend as well. It will go in at spring time along with a low mileage trans. Turns out my trans is OK. The high frequency vibration was the new wheel bearing I put on... replaced that with a Timken. The shudder/shake I felt was the trans rubbing the sub-frame... fixed that with a new trans mount. So the trans is holding in there. I'm sure it's not as grabby as when it was new, and it does do some strange things every few months but for the most part never misses a beat which is pretty good for having a modifed motor and over 220,000 miles everything.

Come spring time the car will be FAST. That's all I'm going to say. Still will be auto as I don't have time or parts to swap a 5spd. I'm going for remove and replace here folks.... I will do a few things to the trans though as mentioned below. I'll get some pics here when winter comes and I get some free time.
 

5/6/2009 -
Wow, long time no update. So many things happened. Got the washer pump in, replaced both front wheel bearings and axles, still have a vibration in relation to speed, must be in the trans. Going to pick up a 3.33 FDR 1999 trans with under 50k miles on it soon, do the TransGo shift correction kit, and shim the accumulators on it so it shifts fast. Then swap it in. That will take care of the vibration, hitting the rev limiter, any slippage, etc. Also it will have a 2095 stall vs 1650 I have now. It's from a W body. The lower geared trans will be fun. I've drove 3100 W bodies and with that FDR and higher stall they take off very fast and feel like they have more power than my car even though that's not true.

I have many pictures I need to get organized and make subpages and link them on here. I had made some CNC poly billet aluminum dogbones, and TB adapters. I got a GREAT deal on custom 2.5" mandrel bent stainless exhaust pipe. That includes a 2.5" downpipe, and all the other pipe which is not welded, it's one piece bent in a machine! Check the specs page for details on the current mods. I'm in the process of installing that now. Here is a youtube video of the open downpipe. This will give me a big bump in power.

Last summer I installed a LX5 65mm TB since the 62mm bored one had issues with the plate sealing and getting a low enough idle. The LX5 with the adapter is great. It provides 2 vacuum locations and a fresh air port I will hook the rear valve cover breather tube to like LS1s have. I have removed the vacuum T and now have the FPR going to the TB for vacuum. I also re-routed the cruise to the factory vacuum ball T location, it works PERFECT now.

Last fall I had a strut mount finally give out (was damaged from over tightening when it got loose all the time). Went back to the metal OEM cups with the new mounts and it works better. I used the 95+ strut mounts they were cheaper and seem to work better. Also went to Eibachs and KYB GR2 struts, and Gas-A-Just shocks. Put on my 28mm front bar and poly (was 22mm) then needed to upgrade the rear as it under steered bad. Replaced the 21mm Z51 with a 25.4mm Addco. Handling is back to neutral but MUCH better than before. With the bigger front bar I can actually pull out onto a road and give it some throttle without spinning the tires when the wheel is turned!! Before you had to baby it and then once the wheel was straight you could get on the gas. Now I can just pull out smoothly in a hurry.

Also I will be putting on a CAI/FWI real soon just have to order a few pieces and get time to do it. Probably shortly after the exhaust.

Summary: FWI, & Trans in the future, Exhaust in progress, TB & Suspension is on.

Pics to come........

2/15/2008 -
Not much other than here is a current picture under the hood. Old 52mm TB back on until the bored (62mm) unit comes back. Things left to do is fix leaky windshield washer pump, replace drivers side CV axle, fill spare torque struts with poly, and get a tube for the modified air box to draw cold air. When it gets warmer and I have some cash flow I will probably drop the car off at a shop to get 2.5" exhaust with a carsound cat, and either another ultraflo or an aerochamber muffler. That should free up a lot of power.

5/23/2007 -
Hand washed the car today and Rain-X'ed the windows. Looks real nice now. Tomorrow I'll fix my tail pipe (rusted off) and vacuum the inside, dust the dash/etc off, clean the inside windows, and armor all the inside. A/C compressor was junk, it leaked. Having my old one re-done with new seals. I took some more video this time without the stock air box, and the muffler with no tail pipe (louder as it bounces off the trunk). I'll compile that later. For now I put some nice new pics of the car washed. Check the pics page.

5/02/2007 -
Put on a used A/C compressor, and got my A/C going again. Replaced passenger front wheel bearing as it was loose. Got some Kumho AST 225/50R16 tires mounted on my best Z26 wheels out of the 6 I have for $297.94. Not bad at all. Need to tighten the center strut mount nut it's loose again, and replace the pipe after the muffler going to the Z26 tips. Then clean the inside/outside up and it'll be ready for summer. Going to start cutting the EGR adapter soon. I think I'm done with the design of it, and it may not be exactly as I was going to do, but it'll work and be easier to make. Check the Pics page for some random pics of the new tires and stuff for now.

4/05/2007 -
I have a digital camera now, that does pretty good videos. I have 2 for now up in reduced quality to save space for now. I will be making some better ones and will make them better quality later. I need to consolidate all my other pictures here too, and take some of the car itself.